• The strainer cover may be loose, cracked, or the O-ring seal may be damaged or missing. Inspect and replace if necessary.
• Check the water level in the pool, it may be too low allowing air to reach the pump through the skimmer. The skimmer weir door may be stuck in the up position not allowing water to enter the skimmer. Also, check for toys blocking the skimmer opening.
• Check for a suction leak, by turning the pump off and inspecting suction piping and fittings for leaks.

• Don’t worry about it! When first “priming” and starting a pump, the high velocity and turbulence of the water coming into the pump strainer normally captures any air in the pump strainer and carries it back to the pool. The combination of the “flap” and the 2″ suction port on your Magnum Force minimize water velocity and turbulence, so the water coming into your pump basically “ignores” the air bubble that may have collected above the “flap” during “priming”. This air bubble is not the result of a ‘suction leak”. It has no effect on the performance of the pump. Your Magnum Force will give you 100% performance.

• This is a common misconception. You have a lot of pressure but very low water flow. This is usually caused by a dirty filter. You can verify this by reading the pressure on your filter pressure gauge. If the filter is clean, it will normally read 10-15 psi, when dirty it will read 20-25 psi. If it is dirty, clean or backwash the filter and the pressure should go down in the filter allowing full flow of water back to your pool.
• Check for a partially closed valve in the return line or some other type of blockage in the return line. The impeller could also be clogged with debris.

The length of time to run your pump will vary depending on such factors as daily usage, pool size, equipment size and weather. At minimum, the entire volume of water in your pool must be circulated through the filter once a day. To calculate how long this will take, you must determine the total gallonage in your pool and the average flow rate of your pump.

Example: 27300 gallons = 420 minutes =7 hours

60 min/hr

65 GPM

Running the pump 24 hrs, a day will not harm your pump, it is equipped with a continuous duty motor.

• Most swimming pool pumps are “self-priming”. However, on initial startup you must fill the strainer case with water so the pump can prime. See your owner’s manual for proper priming procedures.
• The pump may be located too high above the pool water level, requiring longer priming periods. Dealy, the pump should be at or just above the water level.
• You may have a suction leak, see “Why is there a continuous stream of tiny air bubbles in my pump strainer?”

• Motors will run hot to the touch because the shell transfers some of the heat away from the motor windings. Make sure that there is plenty of air flow around the motor. Keep area around motor free of construction materials or other materials that could cause blockage of air flow to the motor. Also keep paint and other flammable materials away from the motor.
• If you perceive that the motor heat is abnormal, you should contact a licensed electrician to check the voltage and amperage of the motor when it is in operation. High amperage will cause a motor to run hot. The causes of high amperage are:

1. Low voltage- which is typically caused by power supply wire being undersized too long to get proper voltage to the motor. We do not recommend that you use an extension cord to power your pool pump. If you believe that this may be the problem, contact a licensed electrician to and/or wire is checking your installation.
2. Motor is locked up- Something may be lodged in the pump impeller causing parts to bind and lock the motor up.
3. Motor bearings- The motor bearings may be beginning to wear.

If the motor is turning off and the pump has just been installed, check to be sure the proper voltage is supplied to the pump. Most pumps are dual voltage, meaning that they are capable of 115V or 230V. All pumps are wired 230V from the factory, so the pump may need to be changed to 115V, see wire diagram on motor. If you are not sure about how to switch the motor from 230V to 115V, contact a licensed electrician or your pool equipment installer. The motor has a high limit switch that turns it “off ” if the motor is overheating. The motor will automatically reset and turn “on” once it cools down. Repeated “ripping” and restarting of the pump motor can shorten the life of the motor. Overheating is typically caused by high amperage. High amperage is

caused by:

1. Low voltage- which is typically caused by power supply wire being undersized and/or wire is too long to get proper voltage to the motor. We do not recommend that you use an extension cord to power your pool pump. If you believe that this may be the problem, contact a licensed electrician to check your installation.
2. Motor is locked up- Something may be lodged in the pump impeller causing parts to bind and lock the motor up.
3. Motor bearings- The motor bearings may be beginning to wear.

The pump may be set up with an automatic timer that will Control the run time so that you don’t have to manually turn the pump on and off.

Pump noise is typically attributed to turbulence, vibration, or a mechanical noise.

Turbulence– Is typically described as a gurgling sound which occurs if there is (cavitation) air mixing with water in the pump. Cavitation can be caused by a suction leak, a suction pipe being too small or if the suction line or skimmer basket are partially clogged.

Vibration– Is the amplification of a pumps normal noise, which usually will decrease if the pump base is either firmly attached to the pump foundation or completely isolated by a rubberized or cushioned base.

Mechanical noise– Is typically identified as a high-pitched squealing sound. Common causes are worn motor bearings which are replaceable and should be replaced by a qualified motor repair shop. Also inspect the impeller and diffuser, they may be rubbing.

• The Ring-Lok securing the clear lid on your Magnum Force pump strainer is designed to give you simple, tool-free access to your pump strainer basket. Even if the Ring-Lok is “really tight”, there is a simple solution. When your pump is running. it creates suction in the pump strainer which pulls the clear lid down. So, while the pump is running, loosen the Ring-Lok + turn. Turn off the pump. They should now come off with a simple twist. Ring-Lok

• High pressure typically means that the filter sand is dirty and needs backwashing. Follow the for backwashing “How do I backwash my filter?” or refer to your owner’s manual or follow the instructions.
• Check to ensure that no valves are closed in the return line to the pool and that there is no blockage in the line.
• Over time, the sand in your filter can become calcified or hardened from chemical buildup. noted on the label located on the tank body. return line. If this has occurred, you can add a degreaser to try and loosen the sand. Often if this has occurred, the sand will need to be replaced.

• No, you do not have to backwash daily. Excessive backwashing is not recommended. Over time, the effectiveness of the sand bed to remove particles improves. Backwash the filter when the pressure increases 10 psi above the pressure when it was clean. Typically, a clean filter will run 10-15 psi, so backwash when the pressure is 20-25 psi.

• Turn the pump off.
• Turn the filter valve handle to Backwash.
• Turn the pump on.
• Typically, it will take 2-3 minutes to backwash the debris from your filter. If your filter has a backwash sight glass, backwash until the water is clear.
• Turn the pump off.
• Turn the filter valve handle to Rinse. (Note: this setting is not available on all valves. If your do not have a rinse position on your valve, set the handle to Filter and restart the pump.)
• Turn the pump on and rinse for 20-30 seconds. This action removes any debris trapped in the filter during backwash.
• Turn the pump off.
• Turn the filter valve handle to Filter and restart the pump.

• The most common cause is a cracked lateral in the underdrain system. You must remove the sand from the filter and inspect the lateral / underdrain system and replace any cracked or damaged parts.
• The sand you are using may be too small, allowing it to pass through the underdrain system. The proper grade sand is #20 silica which is 45 to .55 mm in size. Consult with your local pool dealer.

• You may not be running the pump long enough. Typically, you should run the pump 8-12 hrs a day or until you turn the entire volume of your pool once a day.
• Check your chemical balance. Out of balance water can cause cloudiness.
• Make sure you have the proper amount of sand in your filter. Remove the dial valve and inspect the level of sand, if you have a Laser series filter the sand should be 1″-2″ below the bottom of the basket. Also make sure the upper standpipe and lower standpipe are connected tightly into the basket.
• How old is the sand? The sand should be replaced every 5 years to ensure proper filtration.

• Pool Filters can not filter out live algae. The algae must be killed by super chlorinating your pool water. Once this is done the dead algae can be removed with the assistance of a flocking agent. Consult your local pool dealer on chemical recommendations.

• No, you should not lose sand during backwash.
• This usually indicates that the backwash flow rate is too high and needs to be reduced. This can be done by putting a valve on the backwash line or installing a restrictive adapter in the backwash port.

• A small number of debris or sand may be trapped between the diverter gasket and the valve plate. To clean the valve, push down on the valve handle while the pump is running. This will flush out the valve and usually resolve the problem. Note that when you push down on the valve handle, water will pour out of the backwash port.
• If flushing the valve out does not resolve the problem, then you will need to remove the valve cover and visually inspect the diverter gasket for debris or damage. Clean valve body and diverter gasket with water or rescue diverter assembly if necessary.

• As preventative maintenance, we recommend replacing the sand every five years.

• Set the dial valve handle to the test position. Remove the dial valve at the tank flange (the valve will be attached by hex head bolts or a stainless-steel clamp). Remove the upper diverter and basket assembly if you have a Laser, Splash or Sandstorm series filter.
• The easiest way to remove the sand is by using a wet/dry shop vac. (Note: Place a plastic trash bag in the shop vac canister for easy disposal.) If you do not have access to a shop vac, then you must scoop the sand out of the tank. If you scoop the sand, be careful not to damage the underdrain system when you reach the bottom of the tank. We do not recommend laying the tank on its side, as this could also damage the underdrain system.
• Once the sand is removed, fill the tank halfway with water. Cover the standpipe opening. (Also cover the tank flange bolt holes, if applicable)
• Slowly pour the appropriate amount of sand into the tank.
• Remove the cover over the standpipe. Replace the diverter and basket assembly if applicable.
• Install the dial valve.

• The hoses are connected to the filter valve incorrectly. The three connections on the valve are labeled: PUMP, RETURN, WASTE. Make sure the hose from the pump is connected to the port marked PUMP and that the hose to the pool is connected to the port marked RETURN.

• The underneath side of the dial valve has a small diameter hole drilled in it, which allows air to return to the pool through the return fitting. This hole has become clogged, and you will need to remove the valve and unplug this air relief hole by inserting a wire (straightened paper clip) or anything available that will fit in the hole. This hole is drilled in the ramped section on the underneath side of the valve.

Filter– Water is distributed onto the sand bed. The water flows downward through the sand bed as dirt and debris are captured by the sand. The clean water enters the distribution system at the bottom of the tank. This clean water is pushed up the center standpipe and returned to the pool.

Backwash– Water is directed into the center standpipe and enters the distribution system at the bottom of the tank. The water flows upward through the sand bed washing the dirt and debris up and out of the filter through the waste line.

Rinse– Water is distributed onto the sand bed. The water flows downward through the sand bed to settle it after backwashing. The water enters the distribution system at the bottom of the tank and is pushed up the center standpipe and discharged out the waste line. (Note: This position is not found on all valves and is only used after backwashing.)

Whirlpool– Water flows directly through the valve and is returned to the pool. This position is used if you do not want to circulate water into the sand bed.

Drain– Water flows directly through the valve and out the waste line. This position can also be used to vacuum heavy amounts of debris to waste.

Test– Water will not flow in or out of the valve. If pool equipment is below the water level, use this position when cleaning the hair and lint strainer on the pump. It will prevent water from flowing from the pool through the return line.

Winterize– This position lifts the diverter up from the valve plate to keep the diverter gasket from flattening out during off-season. It also allows air to enter the tank when draining.